A practical, scientifically grounded guide to the best (and worst) methods for preserving oil paint between sessions.
Every painter who has squeezed out a careful palette only to return the next morning to a tray of dry, skinned-over paint knows the frustration. Wasted paint is wasted money, and there's nothing worse than losing a carefully mixed color that took twenty minutes to build.
The good news is that with a basic understanding of what causes oil paint to dry, several effective preservation methods are available. Not all of them work equally well, and some have real drawbacks worth knowing before you commit to them.
Oil paint does not dry through solvent evaporation (as acrylics do). It polymerizes through oxidation. Oxygen from the air reacts with the unsaturated fatty acids in the oil binder, forming cross-linked chains that harden into a solid film. This reaction begins at the surface of each paint pile, forming a skin that traps fresh paint beneath it.
The solution, in every preservation method, is the same: reduce or slow the paint's exposure to oxygen.
Placing the palette in a freezer is the most aggressive approach to slowing oxidation. Cold temperatures dramatically slow the autoxidation reaction, and many artists successfully keep paint fresh for days or even weeks this way.
Practical considerations:
Sealing the palette in an airtight container limits oxygen availability and slows drying considerably. Glass or metal containers provide a better seal than plastic, which is slightly porous to air and moisture over time.
The honest limitation: even a well-sealed container retains some air, so oxidation continues at a reduced rate. This method works well for overnight storage but is less effective for multi-day preservation on its own.
Clove oil contains eugenol, a natural antioxidant compound that inhibits the oxidation reaction responsible for paint drying. Used correctly, it is the single most effective method for preserving palette paint.
The best technique: the indirect vapor method. Place a small cotton ball lightly soaked in clove oil inside a sealed container with your palette, but positioned so it does not make direct contact with the paint. The eugenol slowly evaporates into the enclosed air, creating an antioxidant-rich atmosphere that inhibits the oxidation reaction across the entire palette surface.
This indirect approach avoids the main drawback of adding clove oil directly to paint, which can alter drying behavior, polymer structure, and film chemistry if overdone. With the vapor method, the eugenol concentration is self-limiting and non-contact with the paint.
Covering the palette tightly with plastic wrap creates a physical oxygen barrier and is perfectly adequate for overnight or short-session storage. Press the wrap directly onto the paint surface to minimize the air gap.
This is a practical, zero-cost method for one or two days. For longer periods, it becomes less effective as the small volume of trapped air is gradually depleted, and any seal gaps allow continued oxidation.
Placing a glass palette in a tray of water, submerging the paint piles, effectively excludes air and prevents oxidation. Oil paint is hydrophobic. It repels water, so the paint does not absorb moisture in short submersion periods.
Practical caveats:
For a working studio palette used across multiple sessions, the optimal combination is:
This approach keeps most pigments fresh for three to five days with minimal quality loss, and preserves your carefully mixed color relationships between sessions. This is invaluable when working on a multi-session portrait or complex still life.
Oil paint dries by oxidation, not evaporation. So the solution is always to limit oxygen exposure.